| Radon Mitigation |
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The EPA considers active soil depressurization the
prime method of radon mitigation. The simplest
system is to bore a 4 to 5 inch hole through the
concrete floor. Sometimes this will have to be in
more than one location. These locations are usually
in the corners of closets where you can conceal the
pipe. Soil is removed, creating a radon suction pit. A
PVC bushing is installed in the hole then sealed air
tight and 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe is installed which runs
vertically to the attic. This pipe is now attached to
the intake side of a radon exhaust fan in the attic. If
more than one radon suction pits are necessary the
pipes are first joined together, similar to a central
vacuum system and then connected to the fan. The
radon fan must be exhausted through the roof using
3 or 4 inch PVC pipe. This resembles a typical
plumbing vent. The fan suction creates a slight
negative pressure below the slab or basement floor,
which draws radon gas to the suction pit then up the
pipe and vents it to the atmosphere where it
dissipates.
Radon mitigation is possible through soil
depressurization to eliminate radon gas externally if
this is preferable in your situation. This involves
digging down the side of your house to below the
foundation. Then a 4 or 5 inch hole is bore through
the foundation below the slab or basement floor. A
tunnel is carefully drilled horizontally under the
concrete slab. A 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe is the inserted
into this tunnel and the hole in the foundation is
made airtight around the pipe by injecting
expandable foam. The PVC pipe is connected to the
radon exhaust fan. The radon gas fan is mounted on
the exterior wall of the home. EPA protocol requires
the radon exhaust to vent above the roofline so a 3
inch PVC or you can use decorative downspout to
run vertically up the side of the house and around
the eave to end just above the roof line.
Radon gas is common enough in some areas that
installing the vent pipes right at the first is only wise.
Radon sealing of the concrete is also a must. It is
more cost-effective to include radon-resistant
techniques while building a home, rather than
installing a radon reduction system after the home is
built. When building or renovating your home install
an air exchange unit and it supply you with a positive
air pressure inside the house. This will assist with
the radon mitigation. A little forethought can save
you a lot of money and grief later.
prime method of radon mitigation. The simplest
system is to bore a 4 to 5 inch hole through the
concrete floor. Sometimes this will have to be in
more than one location. These locations are usually
in the corners of closets where you can conceal the
pipe. Soil is removed, creating a radon suction pit. A
PVC bushing is installed in the hole then sealed air
tight and 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe is installed which runs
vertically to the attic. This pipe is now attached to
the intake side of a radon exhaust fan in the attic. If
more than one radon suction pits are necessary the
pipes are first joined together, similar to a central
vacuum system and then connected to the fan. The
radon fan must be exhausted through the roof using
3 or 4 inch PVC pipe. This resembles a typical
plumbing vent. The fan suction creates a slight
negative pressure below the slab or basement floor,
which draws radon gas to the suction pit then up the
pipe and vents it to the atmosphere where it
dissipates.
Radon mitigation is possible through soil
depressurization to eliminate radon gas externally if
this is preferable in your situation. This involves
digging down the side of your house to below the
foundation. Then a 4 or 5 inch hole is bore through
the foundation below the slab or basement floor. A
tunnel is carefully drilled horizontally under the
concrete slab. A 2 or 3 inch PVC pipe is the inserted
into this tunnel and the hole in the foundation is
made airtight around the pipe by injecting
expandable foam. The PVC pipe is connected to the
radon exhaust fan. The radon gas fan is mounted on
the exterior wall of the home. EPA protocol requires
the radon exhaust to vent above the roofline so a 3
inch PVC or you can use decorative downspout to
run vertically up the side of the house and around
the eave to end just above the roof line.
Radon gas is common enough in some areas that
installing the vent pipes right at the first is only wise.
Radon sealing of the concrete is also a must. It is
more cost-effective to include radon-resistant
techniques while building a home, rather than
installing a radon reduction system after the home is
built. When building or renovating your home install
an air exchange unit and it supply you with a positive
air pressure inside the house. This will assist with
the radon mitigation. A little forethought can save
you a lot of money and grief later.